Every time I hear that David Zinczenko and Matt Goulding are publishing another book in their Eat This, Not That! series, I'm resolved not to fall prey to their charms again.

And yet here I sit.

The fellows, editor in chief and food and nutrition editor, respectively, of Men's Health magazine, have put together another compelling volume that shows how we can all bypass the hyper-caloric, fat-, sugar- and salt-laden offerings from fast-food joints and quick-serve restaurants to make our diets more healthful and nutritious.

In past iterations, they've followed a formula, comparing a better-for-you offering (eat this) with something quite horrible (not that).

In their new book, Cook This, Not That! (Rodale, $23.99), they advise taking what for some is a drastic measure: learning to cook.

The premise is that by simply mastering a few basic but tasty recipes and substituting them for takeout or other meals prepared by others, we can seize control of what we eat, how many calories we consume and how much we spend.

The authors make an excellent case for eating in: In the time it takes for a pizza or some Chinese food to be delivered or for the family to pile into the car and drive to a restaurant, any of us can cook a delicious, satisfying and nutritious meal in our kitchen.

The book features more than 200 recipes, for beginners and more seasoned cooks, each illustrated with a full-page colour photo and contrasted with a restaurant favourite.

The Spinach Salad With Warm Bacon Dressing, at 220 calories, 11 grams of fat and 560 milligrams of sodium per serving, is offered as a substitute for the Grilled Shrimp and Spinach Salad from restaurant menus, which usually deliver more calories than dietary guidelines for a full day.

Another example is a version of chicken fried rice with only 720 milligrams of sodium, far less than the amount of sodium usually found in restaurant fare.

One thing I love about the Cook This approach is its emphasis on fresh, whole ingredients and its embrace of delicious items (such as the bacon in that spinach salad) that many diet and nutrition guides would consider off-limits.

The authors eschew light mayonnaise, Splenda, fat-free half-and-half and "sneaky tricks like folding pureed broccoli into your brownies, using Fibre One cereal as breading, or replacing butter with applesauce in the chocolate cookies."

Like the others in the series, this book is packed with handy tips (top your pancakes with easy-to-make fruit compote instead of maple syrup) and graphic guides to selecting the best foods, from meats and dairy products to pantry staples.

And it isn't afraid to play favourites: Breyers All Natural ice cream is singled out as the "go-to brand for all your ice cream needs" because milk, rather than cream, is the first ingredient; it thus has fewer calories and fat than other brands.

"The first six books were telling people how to make smart choices when in a compromising position," Goulding said.

The new book, he said, is "not about cutting out foods you really love, but about learning to produce them in an environment in which you're in control."

That control lets you take charge of how much butter, salt and sugar you consume, said Goulding.

So, do the authors practice what they preach? Zinczenko said, "I cook occasionally, but not as much as Matt." Goulding said that, even with his busy schedule, he tries to cook dinner five nights a week.

But even those who feel they can't manage that frequency can improve their diets by just cooking more often.

SPAGHETTI AND MEATBALLS

Makes 4 to 6 servings

*2 slices bread, any kind, with crust

*2 to 4 tbsp (30 to 60 mL) chicken broth OR milk

*12 oz (340 g) ground turkey

*12 oz (340 g) lean ground beef, preferably 85 per cent lean

*1 large egg

*1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped parsley, more for garnish

*2 tbsp (30 mL) grated Parmesan cheese, more for garnish

*3/4 tsp (3 mL) salt, more for pasta water

*1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground black pepper

*1 onion, minced

*7 garlic cloves, minced

*2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

*1 28-oz (796-oz) can whole peeled tomatoes

*1 lb (450 g) whole-wheat spaghetti

Place bread in a large bowl and sprinkle with broth or milk until soaked. Allow to sit 5 minutes, then squeeze out and discard most of the liquid; crumble bread. Add turkey, beef, egg, 1/2 cup (125 mL) parsley, 2 tbsp (30 mL) Parmesan, salt, pepper, half the onion and a third of the minced garlic. Mix well and form into golf-ball-sized balls (about 24).

In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, heat 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil. Saute meatballs until browned, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, set aside.

In a large saucepan, combine remaining 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil, remaining minced onion and remaining minced garlic. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes, bring to a simmer, and cook uncovered for about 10 minutes, breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon.

4. Add meatballs to sauce. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil, and cook pasta until al dente. To serve, drain pasta and divide among four to six bowls. Top with meatballs and sauce, and garnish with parsley and Parmesan.

Approximate nutrition per serving: 530 calories, 10 g fat, 39 g protein, 71 g carbohydrates, 5 g fibre

-- Adapted from Cook This, Not That! by David Zinczenko and Matt Goulding (Rodale, $23.99)